Application of Wipe on Liquid Oil Based Stains

Oil based gel products require different application techniques than liquid oil based finishes - both produce equally beautiful, lustrous wood tone finishes. Use the information below to assist you in selecting the best finish for your project and finishing style. There are several factors that may influence your choice.

Note: these are general instructions to guide you through the finishing process using water-based products. Always refer to the manufacturer's specific instructions. Application guidelines for each manufacturer may vary.

Attributes of Oil Based Finishes -Selecting Your Finish

Wipe-on Liquid Stains and Top Coats	Wipe-on liquid oil based products are made with high quality urethane resins. They are as durable as polyurethane, but because of their thinner viscosity, urethanes are much easier to apply. Liquid oil based stains penetrate more deeply into the wood than gel oil based stains or water based products and will bring out more variation in the in the wood. You will see rich variations of light and dark tones in the grain, but knots and natural irregularities will also be accentuated. Liquid oil based stains apply rapidly and easily, do not require as much removal of excess product as gel stains do, and come "alive" beautifully when top coated. If speed of application is important to you, choose a liquid oil based stain. Many soft or porous woods, like pine, fir, spruce (soft) and maple, alder and aspen (porous) have a tendency to absorb stain unevenly. Treating the wood surface with a pre-stain wood conditioner helps prevent streaking and blotching to help ensure a beautiful, even stain.
Gel Stains and Top Coats	Unlike liquid stains, gel stain are thick. Gel Stains give such immediate satisfaction and have a very high "touch" factor during the finishing process. Due to their high urethane content, applications of Gel Stain respond with a high luster sooner than liquid oil based stains, which must be top coated. And they do not splash, drip or run. However, this high urethane content also increases the viscosity, requiring more wiping away of excess product during the staining process. If you prefer "rubbing" and polishing a finish on, gel stain is for you. The stain itself contains topcoat material and may be used as a one can finish. We recommend applying 2-3 coats. Additional coats will give even more protection. For maximum durability, apply Gel Top Coat over Gel Stain.
Top Coat Color	Oil based topcoats have a slight amber color. Water based topcoats dry to a clear finish.
Clean Up	Use mineral spirits or paint thinner for clean up.
Dry Time	Oil based products dry more slowly than water-based products. Dry time is 6-8 hours under ideal conditions (70% - 75% humidity). Cooler temperatures or higher humidity may extend the time needed for drying up to 12-24 hours or longer. Basements, even with a furnace, fireplace, and dehumidifier, are the worst environments for drying. Provide good ventilation and air movement with a fan to greatly improve dry time. If a stain coat is dry, you should be able to wipe your hand across the surface without feeling any tackiness. If your topcoat is dry, sanding will produce a white powder.
Cure Time	Let your final coat cure for a period of 14 days to reach optimum hardness. You may use your project sooner; just treat it with special care during the curing period.
Coverage	200 square feet per quart.
Fading	The sun affects everything! If left in strong sunlight, the materials in all stains will fade like everything else does in the sun.
Disposal	When using oil based finishes, take careful precautions when disposing of waste products. Rags, steel wool or other waste soaked with these products may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Never leave application materials indoors. Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in sealed, water filled, metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.
Mixing Custom Colors	You can create a unique color by mixing any two shades of oil based wood stains, or by layering one color over another. Be sure to write down exactly how much of each color is used and mix enough to complete the entire project. Do not mix oil-based products with water-based products.

Surface Preparation

0. Remove all hardware, doors and drawers.

0. All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils.

0. Fill all nail holes with putty before sanding. There are two methods: 1. Fill holes before you stain using putty that dries hard and can be sanded and stained, or 2. Stain the wood, apply one GF Top Coat, and then use colored putty that matches the stain.

0. Good prep sanding is absolutely essential to achieving a good finish! Prepare the surface by using medium paper first, and then proceed to finer grades. For softwoods such as pine, aspen, or alder, sand first with a #120 grit sandpaper, and finish sanding using #150 or #180 grit sandpaper. For closed grained hardwoods such as Oak, Maple or Birch, start with #100 sandpaper and finish with no finer than #120 sandpaper. Never start sanding with very fine sandpaper on unfinished wood.

0. Remove all the dust by vacuuming or wiping with a lint-free cloth or tack cloths. End-grains (areas where the wood has been cut against the grain), such as the front side of a table, tend to soak up more stain than other surfaces. Give end-grain areas an additional sanding to control the absorption of stain. Refer to our sanding tutorial on the preparation page for more information.

Application of Wipe-on Gel Oil Based Stains

Caution: If finishing an unassembled piece of furniture prior to assembly, care must be taken to avoid getting stain on the areas of the joints. Glue will not stick to surfaces that have finish on them.

Always stir contents of the can before and during use.

Using a cloth, foam brush or paint pad applicator, apply a liberal amount of Gel Stain to the area of raw wood you are working. Divide your project into sections: drawer front, table or cabinet top, side of chest, etc. Keep the area wet with product while applying. Wipe away the excess with clean cloths and rub out the stain until the color is even, applying light pressure with your hand until the first layer of stain evens out in color. The first coat of any stain looks unpromising. Take heart, the beauty of the wood will come alive as you add subsequent layers of color and topcoats.

Additional coats of stain may be applied for a deeper, richer color. This photo shows a second coat of stain being applied over the first coat.

On the second or third coats of stain, wipe off the excess stain using a clean cloth in the direction of the grain. Again, apply light pressure with your hand until the color is evened out, finishing with a polishing motion in the direction of the grain.

Keep extra wiping cloths nearby as you work, replacing them as needed until you remove all excess Gel Stain. Be sure to remove all rag marks and smudges, turning and changing cloths as needed. Several thin coats will give a better result.

Continue to turn the cloth to a clean side as you work. On your last few passes across the surface, use a light, brisk, polishing motion, continuing to work in the direction of the grain. When you achieve the depth of color desired, it is time to move on to topcoats.

Tip: Use an old dry bristle brush to remove stain buildup from the corners of molding, bead board, etc. Protect the places you are handling the piece with a clean dry cloth. Protect the wet surfaces of any pieces that need handling by holding the piece with a clean dry cloth.

Sanding between coats of any stain or topcoat is called Buffing. Even though gel stain contains topcoat material, we do not recommend buffing between coats of Gel Stain because you may remove an area of stain that cannot be re-blended. One of the benefits of using Gel Stain is that less buffing is required than for other products. The process of wiping off Gel Stain products leaves less stain on the surface for dust to settle into. If you must buff because you have imperfections that need to be smoothed out, do so with caution using superfine sanding pad or #320 sandpaper.

Although not required, for maximum durability, finish off your piece with Top Coat. Rub on topcoat with a cloth, paint pad or foam brush. Shown here: application using paper toweling.

When applying Top Coats, your application process turns into a very light, brisk polishing motion with long light sweeping strokes, as the Top Coats glide along the smoother surface of the previous stain coats. Several thin coats will give the best result.

Buff lightly between each topcoat with a super fine sanding pad or #320 sand paper. Do not buff the final Top Coat. Sanding pads are far superior to sand paper as they form around moldings and corners and they last a long time. We like using a well-worn pad on the last few coats of topcoat to promote a fine finish. Tip: If your super fine sanding pad is new, use it on raw wood first when working with the final finish coat.

Vacuum or wipe clean after buffing each layer of topcoat.

Remember, do not buff the last coat of Gel Top Coat - just start admiring your work.

Application of Wipe-on Liquid Oil Based Stains

A. Wipe-on Liquid Oil Based Stains contain colored pigments that often settle to the bottom of the can and must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take as much as five minutes to thoroughly mix the contents of the can so that the color remains consistent as the contents are used up.

B. Do a test first on the back, bottom or other inconspicuous area of the furniture to check the stain color before proceeding. If the stain looks evenly coated and you like the look, one coat staining is adequate. If the stain is too light or uneven, a second coat of stain may be needed before the topcoat is applied.

C. Apply using a foam brush, bristle brush, paint pad applicator, or a lint-free cloth such as an old T-shirt.

D. Stain one surface at a time. As you stain each area, remove excess stain by wiping with a clean cloth. It is important to wipe off the stain thoroughly and consistently (in the direction of the grain) to get an evenly stained surface.

E. If a darker or deeper color is desired, allow the first coat of stain to dry for 24 hours, then apply a second coat of stain in the same manner as the first. Never buff a stain coat, only topcoats.

2. Optional Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner

Pre-stain wood conditioners are specifically designed for use before staining new or bare soft and porous wood surfaces such as with Aspen or Pine. It penetrates the grain of the wood to promote uniform acceptance of stain, and helps prevent streaking and blotching to help ensure a beautiful, even stain. Prior to staining, apply a liberal coat of a pre-stain wood conditioner. Allow it to penetrate for 5-15 minutes, and then wipe away the excess with a cloth. For highly absorbent woods, you can then apply a second coat, wait, and wipe away the excess again. Allow the pre-stain to dry for 30 minutes before applying stain, but no longer than 2 hours.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Pre-sealing with the wood with Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner will lighten the color of your stain so test the stain color before starting. A second coat of stain may be applied after the first coat has dried to achieve a darker color.

3. Applying Top Coats

Apply the topcoat with a lint-free cloth, foam brush, or paint pad applicator, moving with the direction of the grain. For large surfaces, apply a liberal coat as quickly as possible, evening out the surface with long, smooth strokes, keeping your applicator wet to provide lubrication. A dry applicator can drag on the surface and may cause streaks. (These streaks may be easily removed after the surface has dried by buffing well and recoating). Buff between topcoats with '0000' steel wool or #320 or finer grade sandpaper to produce a smooth surface. A minimum of 3 topcoats is recommended.