Applying Water Based Finishes

Note: these are general instructions to guide you through the finishing process using water based products. Always refer to the manufacturer's specific instructions. Application guidelines for each manufacturer may vary.

Attributes of Water Based Finishes

This information has been developed to assist you in selecting the best finish for your project. Application techniques differ between oil based and water based products. There are several factors that may influence your choice.

Strong, clear vibrant colors	Nothing produces beautiful colors better than water based finishing products. Red, blues and greens and everything between produce vibrantly in water based finishes. Whether you want brilliant hues to enhance a neutral room, a touch of whimsy or the comfort of classic colors; furniture color is the perfect venue for self expression. With unfinished furniture, the possibilities are endless.
Top Coat Color	Water based top coats are milky white in the can and dry to a crystal clear finish. Oil based top coats have a slight amber color.
Clean Up	Water clean up.
Non-Combustible	Water based products are non-combustible, unlike oil based products.
Recommended finish for open grained woods	Water based products are a topical finish. We recommend using them on any woods that penetrate easily, such as pine or aspen, to produce a more even looking finish. Conversely, oil based stains tend to penetrate the wood more, and can bring out more variation in the final result. With that said, remember you are applying finish to parts of a tree, and every piece will look different!
	The sun affects everything!  If left in strong sunlight, the pigments and dyes in stains will fade like everything else. Water based furniture paints are an ideal exterior product and hold color quite well over time.
Grain Raise	Water based products produce more grain raising than oil based finishes - they do require a different finishing technique. Before applying the finish, spray the project with water or rub down with a damp cloth. Allow the wood to dry and then sand lightly to remove the raised grain. This conditions the wood to accept water based finishes. You will get a perfect finish by following the application instructions. The amount of grain raising is dependent on the type of wood species.
Fast Dry Time	Water based products dry faster so your project can be completed faster. Dry times are temperature and humidity dependent. In hot temperatures (85F - 100F) the finish may dry too fast. Use an Extender to open (increase) the dry time. High humidity can cause finishes to take longer to dry but will not harm the final finish.
Temperature	Water based finishes must be applied at temperatures above 65 F. Cooler temperatures will adversely affect how the finish will level and harden, causing fish-eyes or craters. If it is cold enough to wear a sweater it is too cold to apply a water based finish. The surface of the wood should also be warm. Warming cold finish by setting the can in some hot water for 5 minutes will improve the ease of application.
Mixing Custom Colors	You can create unique colors by mixing any two shades of water based products. Be sure to write down exactly how much of each color is in the mix and mix enough to complete the entire project. Tinting may be accomplished by adding 10 to 20% Stain to Top Coat. Do not mix water based products with oil based products.
Cure Time	Allow the final Top Coat to cure for a period of 14 days to reach optimum hardness. You may use your furniture sooner. Just treat it with special care during the curing period.
Maintenance	To maintain the finish clean surface with a damp washcloth and wipe dry. Cleaners such as Pledge and Murphy's Oil Soap are not recommended because they leave a dull residue on the finish. Polishes such as orange oil work well for routine maintenance.
Spraying	While both oil based and water based products can be sprayed, water based products really spray like a dream with water clean up. Water based topcoats are self leveling and dry quickly.

Surface Preparation

A. All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils.

B. Before Sanding spray the project with water or rub down with a damp cloth. Allow the wood to dry and then sand lightly to remove the raised grain

C. Do NOT start sanding with very fine sandpaper on unfinished wood. Sanding is a progressive procedure. Prepare the surface by using medium sand paper first, and then proceed to finer grades. Water based finishes need a smoother surface than oil based finishes, but do not over sand or you may seal the wood so much that it will not take a finish. Sand raw wood in the direction of the grain starting with a coarser grit sand paper such as #120 sandpaper, and finish the final sanding with a fine grit sandpaper such as #220. End-grains (areas where the wood has been cut against the grain), such as the front side of a table, tend to soak up more stain than other surfaces. Give end-grain areas an additional sanding to control the absorption of stain. We recommend minimizing the grain raise, especially on hardwoods such as Oak and Ash. Before applying the finish, spray the project with water or rub down with a damp cloth. Allow the wood to dry and then sand lightly to remove the raised grain. This conditions the wood to accept water based finishes.

D. Option for wood stains:  Soft woods such as Pine and Aspen absorb wood stain at an uneven rate and may respond better to staining if the wood is pre-sealed. A natural (clear) stain can be applied to raw wood to condition the surface for uniform penetration of the stain. Pre-sealing will cause the final stain to be lighter. Always test your color on a hidden part of the furniture! Allow the natural clear stain to dry 1 hour before applying your final stain color.

E. Unfinished furniture comes sanded from the factory, but still needs the final sanding with #180 or #220 sandpaper.

F. Remove dust with an air hose, damp cloth or "oil free" tack cloths. Do not use oil based tack cloths when using water based finish. Most tack cloths contain oil and will contaminate the surface.

G. Do NOT use steel wool when preparing wood for water based finish, as steel particles will cause rust spots.

Supplies Needed

1. Lots of good quality paper towels or lint-free cloths for wiping.

2. Foam brushes (3" to 4" for big projects) or latex paint pad applicators and a bristle brush to pull stain out of corners. You must brush or wash paint pad applicators before use to remove loose bristles.

3. #100 or #120, and #180 or #220 grit sandpaper for sanding raw wood.

4. #320 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponges for buffing between Top Coats. Do not use steel wool because steel particles left behind will rust.

5. Soap and water for clean up.

Application of Water Based Wood Stains

1) Always stir the contents well every time you open the can. Stirring reduces the thickness of the stain and distributes pigments that may have settled to the bottom of the can. It may take several minutes to thoroughly mix the contents so that the color remains consistent as the contents are used up.

2) Always do a test first on the back, bottom or other inconspicuous area to check the stain color before proceeding. Do not practice on your new furniture. Every piece of wood and every wood species is unique and will finish differently. If the stain looks evenly coated and you like the look, one coat of stain is adequate. A second coat, applied after the first one is dry, will give you a darker and deeper color.  

3) Divide your project into manageable sections (top, side, drawer, door) and stain one surface at a time. It is essential to apply with a wet, liberal amount of stain. Load up a 3" or 4"  foam brush or latex paint pad with product and apply LIBERALLY, keeping the surface wet with product until you are ready to wipe that section off. If too little stain is used, the surface can dry too quickly causing an uneven appearance. As you stain each section, remove excess stain by wiping with a cloth or paper towel thoroughly and consistently in the direction of the grain. Check for missed spots and lap marks before moving to the next section. Immediately correct lap marks by rewetting the area with stain. Sanding between coats of any stain or Top Coat is called Buffing. Never buff between stain coats.